In preparation for a future post in which I do some failure analysis on my KitchenAid KICU509XBL induction cooktop, I dug up the service manual I had laying in one of my document drawers and have scanned it into a PDF. Download the PDF file here.
Since Googling for the cooktop’s error/failure codes didn’t turn up anything useful, I’ll post them here so that people can find it more easily (note that I’ve paraphrased it from what’s listed in the PDF itself):
Failure types:
- Power control board: Affects only one burner, with the rest remaining functional.
- Usually from the power control board, but could be some exceptions: Affects all burners associated with that control board, but any burners that aren’t using said board will still work.
- User interface board: Entire cooktop will be unusable.
Error codes:
- F12: Type 1 – Insufficient current to a burner’s electromagnetic coil.
- F21: Type 2 – Mains power supply frequency is out of range.
- F25: Type 2 – Cooling fan is stuck or dead. The specific fan that has failed can be determined by which side the F25 error code is appearing on the user interface board.
- F36, F37: Type 1 – A burner’s temperature sensor has failed.
- F40: Type 1 or Type 2 – Power control board has failed.
- F42: Type 2 – Mains power supply voltage has a problem, perhaps an open fuse on the EMI filter/mains input board.
- F47: Type 2 – User interface board cannot communicate with the power control board, and/or its fuse is blown. (This failure code is what appeared on my particular cooktop.)
- F56: Type 3 – The configuration data on the cooktop’s user interface board EEPROM is invalid.
- F58: Type 2 – The configuration data on the cooktop’s power control board EEPROM is invalid.
- F60: Type 3 – User interface board has failed.
- F61: Type 2 – Power control board has failed, likely because it is not receiving enough voltage.
- C81, C82: Type 2 – Cooktop is overheating.
EDIT (November 6, 2015): The F47 code, in my case, was because the power control board (which is responsible for driving the induction coils to heat up the cookware) had short-circuited somehow. Either way, it burnt out all of the transistors and the diode bridge, which then caused its fuse to blow, and at one point it tripped the main breaker in the house.
I suspect it was caused by using the largest element (the rear right burner) on the Boost/P setting, which overloaded the electronics and caused them to fail dramatically. After getting the board replaced (twice), KitchenAid said they do know about this issue to some extent, and repaired our cooktop free-of-charge despite being out of warranty for several months.
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Who did you contact? I purchased the extended warranty as we did not notice the problem till after the warranty was expired and have not found the time to get them out to fix the problem. Same F47 code, but after being on for 15 minutes or so, it will work some then go back to F47 flashing. Glad this is not the most expensive cook top my wife and I could have purchase!! NOT!!
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Hi Jimmy,
I contacted KitchenAid both through their online warranty site, and over the phone. I don’t remember the order in which I had done so, as it has been a while since I’ve had my cooktop serviced.
Your situation seems a bit different, given that yours seems to work for a short period of time before failing again. I suspect it may just be a loose connection on the power and/or communication connectors, as opposed to an outright catastrophic failure of the power semiconductors.
Jason
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Hello. I purchased this model KitchenAid cooktop, which had been returned. No notes about its previous history and KitchenAid warrenty dept. could not tell me anything about this serial number, this specific unit. When I connected it to power in my home, the unit seems to be completely dead. What is the best way get a good diagnosis and the parts to fix it?
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Hi Eddie,
I’d start with the usual troubleshooting steps (checking fuses, voltages on the power supply/EMI board…) and working from there. As the cooktop appears completely dead, I suspect that the fault lies on the user interface or EMI filter board. Of course, proceed with extreme caution as a 240V 40 amp branch circuit will happily provide a lethal shock, and a short circuit would certainly be bad news as well!
I don’t have a user interface board on hand, so I myself can’t provide you a replacement. As for the EMI board, it takes two 25A 250V ceramic fuses in a 0.25″/1.25″ form factor.
Jason
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Does the Kitchenaide induction cooktop have a part in it called “magnetic induction unit”.? if so, can you provide a part number for the 36″ model?
Thanks,
Scott
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Hi Scott,
I’m not sure whether that specific part is in the unit, but I suspect it is the induction coil assembly. Unfortunately I don’t have the part number immediately on hand.
Jason
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We have a maytag induction, clock works, two burners work but breaker went now we have F47
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Sounds like one of the power boards may have failed in your cooktop. Since you mentioned a clock, I suspect your model is different from what I have. How old is the cooktop?
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My cooktop will work perfectly fine sometimes and other times it won’t. I will be cooking and the darn thing just turns off (no error code indicated either). The immediate way to get it going again is to turn off the power from the circuit breaker which isn’t very convenient in the middle of cooking. The other day I had one burner on P and the other burners would only go to 7. They eventually all turned off. Sometimes after it goes off it continues to beep until the H goes off. If I don’t trip the circuit breaker it will eventually reset on it’s own. This has been going on for at least 2 years but seem to be happening more frequently lately so I think I need to get it addressed before it totally gives. Do you think the issue is in the cooktop or could be the wiring?
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Hi Sarah,
Which model of cooktop do you have? Given the symptoms you’ve described, there is a chance there is a problem in the wiring, cooktop, or both. That said, having one burner at P (which burner was it, specifically?) and the rest at 7 suggests the control circuitry in the cooktop is “throttling down” because it is unable to provide full power; this suggests there may either be an overheating issue, or possibly low voltage due to a loose power connection.
If you’re using more than one burner at a time, I would suggest using a maximum power of 9 instead of P. To my knowledge, Boost/P is a kind of “overdrive” mode that pushes the internal circuitry to its limit and should only be used to get a pot of water to boiling temperature. In my case, running the largest burner at P resulted in a catastrophic failure in the cooktop’s power circuitry – that is why I made this blog post in the first place.
Is there an accessible junction box where the cooktop is wired into the house? After running the cooktop to the point of it shutting down, is the junction box warm? If it is, then that strongly suggests there is a loose connection causing a voltage drop (I should warn you that this also presents an overheating and maybe even a fire risk).
Regards,
Jason
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I have the same problem, F47 and it occurs when I use power boost. The cooktop has been repaired at least 4 times and now the extended warranty does not want to repair or replace it. They want to give me less than half of what I paid and I am out a cooktop. Love Kitchenaid but hate this cooktop. I am posting everywhere I can to warn others not to buy it as they will love it at first but it will learn to hate it as I have. Very disappointed, we purchased 12/2015 and after a few months problems. This last time they came 10/31/17 to verify not working then came back Jan 25 2018 installed new parts and while testing it with power boost it F47 again and not working. Looks like I have to find a new cooktop but think I will wait as as I need new stove and micro in near future and would like to purchase all same brand so will match. Won’t be looking at Kitchenaid this time which pains me as my other appliances have been stellar.
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Our mitigation “solution” was simply to put a label on the cooktop saying to not use the Boost setting on the largest element. It is unfortunate that the Kitchenaid/Whirlpool designers did not properly design their components to handle the extra load of the Boost power setting on the large element, but after even 2 failures our family learned not to use the feature if it kills the cooktop.
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wish the techs knew that because they kept saying it was a connection and replacing the board. Kitchenaid has to know this was a dud, you would think to keep customers for future purchases they would at least give a discount on a future one…oh well…
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We have a F12 code when using the large burner. Code showed up after using Power Boost on small burner. Unit “buzzes” the “clicks” repeatedly while cooking. We have resorted to using our cheap pans over the more expensive “Induction” pans to cook with. Not sure why cheap pans work better. 🙂
I am capable of replacing parts. Is there a specific part that can be replaced to make this unit work again?
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I’d probably first check the power connections to see if it’s loosened, maybe the internal screw terminals too. Worst case, one power control board might need replacement.
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We had same problem with same unit, F47 error code, shorted and tripped circuit for entire house. Now trying to deal with KitchenAid to repair. Will update when know more.
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Hopefully KitchenAid will repair your cooktop. It’s been a few years since we’ve last dealt with their customer service line so I’m not sure if their procedures have changed.
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Probably should have checked this blog-y thing before purchasing the cooktop but I figured KitchenAid was a reliable brand, you know being so cheap and all (wink). Put in the induction top 2 years ago Thanksgiving into a vacation home. We visited the home a total of 4 times in the next 18 months and had a few issues but I thought they were my mistakes not knowing the functions of the stove. The stove, while cooking on one or more burners just turns everything off. It can just be restarted by pushing the power button. In September we moved into the home full time. The power issue continued but is intermittent. Then on Thanksgiving day, the front edge of the cooktop started emitting electrical smoke- no error codes ever. We turned the stove off and the smoke dissipated, but if we turned it back on, more smoke came out. I’m wondering if I should call an electrician or a stovetop repairman???
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I’d call a stovetop repairman, provided they do induction stoves. An electrician generally won’t touch the electronics side of things including the electronics inside the cooktop.
Have you tried contacting KitchenAid support about this issue? The cooktop smoking definitely sounds like a safety-related issue they should resolve.
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As of May 2017 they have not fixed the power boost issue. Blew apart a magnet while the fuse remained in tact. I have not been courageous enough to use P since.
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f25 code put a new fan in and still f25 sode says control board before i start getting into this unit maybe just scrap it and get a mele
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I would stay away from the KitchenAid Induction cooktop. We have had ours for less than 2 months, and the first time tried to boil large pot of water for spaghetti it “popped” and started F47 code. This is middle of 2019 and they are still having these issues? BS
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Sorry to hear that. I’d have thought they would have fixed this issue by now – I guess not!
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We are 6 months now w Jennair induction stovetop and have had five new boards already from F47. They finally gave us a whole new unit and it blew two days before Thanksgiving.
It always occurs when you put a large burner on full power . Can’t believe Jennair have not fixed this design fault in 3 + years!
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Same issue here, also happened when using boost mode on largest burner. It was on for maybe 7-8 minutes when I heard a pop noise from the adjacent room. Returned to find the F47 error code and a burning electric smell. This JennAir unit (model # JIC4430XS) was installed in 2015 and has been infrequently used since then. Whirlpool offered to fix it for free, but then retracted the offer after they couldn’t find a service company to come to our house. We live 30 minutes outside town, apparently that’s too far. So now we’ll have to pay full price to replace the unit. I am trying to escalate the issue with JennAir/Whirlpool now, hopefully there are other options. If anyone has suggestions, I’d welcome them!
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Our final recourse came about by calling the corporate offices to complain that no one was returning our calls from customer service about this issue. That really helped and we got a resolution right away. If we could uninstall the unit and bring it into town, they’d cover the repair. So that’s what we did and we reinstalled it ourselves (very straight-forward if you’re comfortable connecting wires in a junction box). It’s been working ever since, though I no longer trust the Boost mode and stay away from it.
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It’s great to hear you were eventually able to get your issue resolved. The Boost mode always, to my mind, was a way to exploit engineering headrooms in terms of heat/thermal mass to boil water faster (as per their wording), but doing so on the largest burner would just push the components past their limits and causing catastrophic failure.
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The fact that they replace these units for free outside of warranty seems to confirm your suspicion. They knew there was a design flaw and replacing units here and there is cheaper than a blanket recall…
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Hey Jason – I am having the same issue as you described in your Nov 16, 2015 edit – I have the KSIB900ess 30″ 4-element induction cook top. The two right elements aren’t working since the first day I plugged them in – I didn’t do much cooking before so it wasn’t a huge problem. Now that I am hope 24/7 and cooking non-stop I find that having those two working would be so much EASIER!
I opened up the cooktop and everything seems to be in place and looks good, but I don’t know how to tell if parts are burnt out. I know I can fix this myself if I know what the issue is but I won’t want to assume and just buy a part that might not be the issue – any thoughts on a better way to diagnose the actual issue?
Thanks!!
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If it was not working the day you got it, I would’ve suggested getting it warranty serviced back then!
I’d try the basics like unplugging/replugging the connectors between the power and the control board a few times (with the breaker turned off of course!). If you have a multimeter, check if the fuses to make sure they’re not blown. The power semiconductors should not read 0 ohms of resistance on the second and third pins for the IGBT transistors (3-legged device bolted to the aluminum heatsink), and the bridge rectifier should also not read 0 ohms across various pins (4-legged device).
KitchenAid’s repair was to replace the entire power board assembly despite only one power board being damaged (it was damaged at a component level that they definitely wouldn’t consider servicing).
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Hello, it’s July 2020 and we have the same Kitchenaid KICU509 F47 error due to using the big element on P blowing its fuse. We have a replacement A20 fuse but can’t find the F2 fuse on the board. F1 we can see, but those elements work. We bought the Sears warranty when we bought the unit in 2017 but alas that’s no longer an option:-(
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The fuse should be on the EMI filter board with all the big filter choke coils, unless there’s a design change I’m not aware of. However, replacing the fuse won’t make the cooktop functional again, as the high power semiconductors are almost certainly failed short-circuit.
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I have the 36 inch 5 burner model and I have always wondered if it was getting enough power because of the way it acted and the noises it made when under heaver loads. The other night I had a big pot of spaghetti sauce on 2 in the middle and a smaller pot of water on P to make the spaghetti. Suddenly there was a loud bang and the infamous F47 code now shows on the left two burners and the whole stove is dead. I appreciate all of the comments above as I now know the stove has probably blown some major power components. Are there broad level drawings or schematics available? Do you have to take it out to work on it?
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Working on the cooktop will require taking it out. I am not aware of any board level schematics since servicing is officially done on a per-module basis.
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I have a KICU569XSS and the 25A fuse on one of the EMI filter boards keeps popping. Its the left half of the cooktop that powers the two small burners. I opened it up, replaced the fuse, put it all back together, turned the breaker on, it beeped and started up, but then as soon as I hit the power button on the interface to turn a burner on, I heard a pop. I haven’t opened it back up again, but assume the exact same fuse just popped. So my question is, what is the next most likely thing to replace and or diagnosis. I’m not sure if its the EMI filter board, the power control board, or the user interface? Any suggestions on the next steps to try? Thanks for any help! I read through the service manual and it wasn’t obvious to me whats next. The one section says to replace both control boards next?
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It’s most likely going to be the left-side power control board, with one or more sets of IGBTs and other power semiconductors having failed short-circuit. Unfortunately, KitchenAid doesn’t replace individual boards, but treats both power control boards as a single field-replaceable unit. As for whether an individual can even acquire a module for self-repair… I’m honestly not sure what they’re going to do, especially with COVID-19 going around still.
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I have the KICU569XSS for 3.5 years and is still working great. An error code once or twice after Power boost on big burner within the first year but hasnt done it since removing the whole unit to replace glass top and redoing wire nut connections. Perhaps a poor connection the first time. So after checking amp loads in my service panel to put in a Generator sub panel, I noticed my oven/stovetop breaker was drawing 1.6 amps while not in use.(380 watt/hour) thought it was the oven as it is 20yrs old but nope, the Induction top. Its peanuts for energy compared to full load but this at standby completely off which has been costing me $40 a month while off. We use it daily at least an hour but wanted to know if anyone with this model can throw a clamp on theirs and see if this is “normal” . Talking with KitchenAid was pointless to get technical info. If this is a circuitry malfunction I will replace it to stop the $500/yr electric waste and If this is what others find as well….
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I made the mistake of using the power boost on the rear left (large) burner. Heard a pop and the back two burners are flashing with the F47 error. My ovens still work and it’s going to be 10 days before I can get a repair person to the house. Is it safe to still use the oven or could this damage something further?
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The failed components are effectively isolated from the rest of the system through the blown fuses on the power board. It’s safe to use the remaining burners until the service person arrives to replace the failed modules.
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Thank you so much for your prompt reply to my question!!! With Thanksgiving coming up, I’m a bit in panic mode. 🙂
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It’s December 2020 and we are having the same issues with our KICU509XBL KITCHENAID COOKTOP. We have the F47 code on the right two burners. We had 2-3 months use out of this piece of junk. Kitchenaid is refusing to repair under warranty saying it needs more ventilation. We just moved to a new house so will have to wait to replace. We will never ever buy anything from the GE/Whirlpool/Kitchenaid family of products.
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had kitchenaid MOD.KICU569xss00 3-5 yrs, out of warranty. put center burner to p and blew main CB. two right burner were also on.centercode f61 top right f47,bottom right f61. is it a interface control ,fuser main board.thank for your advice. e-mail lostd131@aol.com
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Sounds like the EMI board has blown fuses because of one or more damaged power control boards.
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ps can’t fine schematic diagram so l can check circuits.
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I have the KitchenAid KICU509XBL and was using the power booster on the right rear burner. I heard a loud POP and the entire cooktop shut down completely. What are the parts I can expect to be replacing? I’ll call the service shop on Monday to see when they can come repair.
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Expect to replace the entire power module (I can’t remember what its exact name is), which includes the EMI filter/fuse board, and both power control boards for each side.
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I have the Model KICU509XBL-30″ Kitchenaide induction cook top. I have the same problem frequently described above. The right 2 burners do not work. We were cooking and heard a loud pop. The burners quit working and we got the F47 error code. The left 2 burners have continued to work.
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Stay away from Kitchen Aid/Whirlpool Induction COOKTOPS. Should you ever use the BOOST setting, you will fry the unit and be stuck with horrible customer service. I can’t believe Whirlpool still has not acknowledged this is a manufacturer’s defect. They should eliminate the BOOST setting and save people hundreds if not thousands of dollars with useless tech service appointments and out of warranty claims.
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