KitchenAid induction cooktop service manual

In preparation for a future post in which I do some failure analysis on my KitchenAid KICU509XBL induction cooktop, I dug up the service manual I had laying in one of my document drawers and have scanned it into a PDF. Download the PDF file here.

Since Googling for the cooktop’s error/failure codes didn’t turn up anything useful, I’ll post them here so that people can find it more easily (note that I’ve paraphrased it from what’s listed in the PDF itself):

Failure types:

  1. Power control board: Affects only one burner, with the rest remaining functional.
  2. Usually from the power control board, but could be some exceptions: Affects all burners associated with that control board, but any burners that aren’t using said board will still work.
  3. User interface board: Entire cooktop will be unusable.

Error codes:

  • F12: Type 1 – Insufficient current to a burner’s electromagnetic coil.
  • F21: Type 2 – Mains power supply frequency is out of range.
  • F25: Type 2 – Cooling fan is stuck or dead. The specific fan that has failed can be determined by which side the F25 error code is appearing on the user interface board.
  • F36, F37: Type 1 – A burner’s temperature sensor has failed.
  • F40: Type 1 or Type 2 – Power control board has failed.
  • F42: Type 2 – Mains power supply voltage has a problem, perhaps an open fuse on the EMI filter/mains input board.
  • F47: Type 2 – User interface board cannot communicate with the power control board, and/or its fuse is blown. (This failure code is what appeared on my particular cooktop.)
  • F56: Type 3 – The configuration data on the cooktop’s user interface board EEPROM is invalid.
  • F58: Type 2 – The configuration data on the cooktop’s power control board EEPROM is invalid.
  • F60: Type 3 – User interface board has failed.
  • F61: Type 2 – Power control board has failed, likely because it is not receiving enough voltage.
  • C81, C82: Type 2 – Cooktop is overheating.

EDIT (November 6, 2015): The F47 code, in my case, was because the power control board (which is responsible for driving the induction coils to heat up the cookware) had short-circuited somehow. Either way, it burnt out all of the transistors and the diode bridge, which then caused its fuse to blow, and at one point it tripped the main breaker in the house.

I suspect it was caused by using the largest element (the rear right burner) on the Boost/P setting, which overloaded the electronics and caused them to fail dramatically. After getting the board replaced (twice), KitchenAid said they do know about this issue to some extent, and repaired our cooktop free-of-charge despite being out of warranty for several months.


10 thoughts on “KitchenAid induction cooktop service manual

  1. Who did you contact? I purchased the extended warranty as we did not notice the problem till after the warranty was expired and have not found the time to get them out to fix the problem. Same F47 code, but after being on for 15 minutes or so, it will work some then go back to F47 flashing. Glad this is not the most expensive cook top my wife and I could have purchase!! NOT!!

    • Hi Jimmy,

      I contacted KitchenAid both through their online warranty site, and over the phone. I don’t remember the order in which I had done so, as it has been a while since I’ve had my cooktop serviced.

      Your situation seems a bit different, given that yours seems to work for a short period of time before failing again. I suspect it may just be a loose connection on the power and/or communication connectors, as opposed to an outright catastrophic failure of the power semiconductors.


  2. Hello. I purchased this model KitchenAid cooktop, which had been returned. No notes about its previous history and KitchenAid warrenty dept. could not tell me anything about this serial number, this specific unit. When I connected it to power in my home, the unit seems to be completely dead. What is the best way get a good diagnosis and the parts to fix it?

    • Hi Eddie,

      I’d start with the usual troubleshooting steps (checking fuses, voltages on the power supply/EMI board…) and working from there. As the cooktop appears completely dead, I suspect that the fault lies on the user interface or EMI filter board. Of course, proceed with extreme caution as a 240V 40 amp branch circuit will happily provide a lethal shock, and a short circuit would certainly be bad news as well!

      I don’t have a user interface board on hand, so I myself can’t provide you a replacement. As for the EMI board, it takes two 25A 250V ceramic fuses in a 0.25″/1.25″ form factor.


  3. Does the Kitchenaide induction cooktop have a part in it called “magnetic induction unit”.? if so, can you provide a part number for the 36″ model?

    • Hi Scott,

      I’m not sure whether that specific part is in the unit, but I suspect it is the induction coil assembly. Unfortunately I don’t have the part number immediately on hand.


    • Sounds like one of the power boards may have failed in your cooktop. Since you mentioned a clock, I suspect your model is different from what I have. How old is the cooktop?

  4. My cooktop will work perfectly fine sometimes and other times it won’t. I will be cooking and the darn thing just turns off (no error code indicated either). The immediate way to get it going again is to turn off the power from the circuit breaker which isn’t very convenient in the middle of cooking. The other day I had one burner on P and the other burners would only go to 7. They eventually all turned off. Sometimes after it goes off it continues to beep until the H goes off. If I don’t trip the circuit breaker it will eventually reset on it’s own. This has been going on for at least 2 years but seem to be happening more frequently lately so I think I need to get it addressed before it totally gives. Do you think the issue is in the cooktop or could be the wiring?

    • Hi Sarah,

      Which model of cooktop do you have? Given the symptoms you’ve described, there is a chance there is a problem in the wiring, cooktop, or both. That said, having one burner at P (which burner was it, specifically?) and the rest at 7 suggests the control circuitry in the cooktop is “throttling down” because it is unable to provide full power; this suggests there may either be an overheating issue, or possibly low voltage due to a loose power connection.

      If you’re using more than one burner at a time, I would suggest using a maximum power of 9 instead of P. To my knowledge, Boost/P is a kind of “overdrive” mode that pushes the internal circuitry to its limit and should only be used to get a pot of water to boiling temperature. In my case, running the largest burner at P resulted in a catastrophic failure in the cooktop’s power circuitry – that is why I made this blog post in the first place.

      Is there an accessible junction box where the cooktop is wired into the house? After running the cooktop to the point of it shutting down, is the junction box warm? If it is, then that strongly suggests there is a loose connection causing a voltage drop (I should warn you that this also presents an overheating and maybe even a fire risk).


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